Installed nice brake cooling setup today

[sleepless]

Like others, I went with the Apex front air ducts. Found out that Cantrell Motorsports in Kirland WA has available backing plates that work with pretty much any brake setup; mine is OEM.

The Apex ducts are designed for 3" hose but Cantrell prefers 2 1/2" so there is less chance of tire rubbing issues and because it fits through the suspension without being crushed. So, their backing plates are designed for 2 1/2" hose which fits nicely inside the Apex front ducts; nice tight fit.

First track day is March 18th at our new local track, The Ridge Motorsports Park!

Below are some photos. I've highlighted the areas where the undertray is cut. The front is obviously for the ducts. At the rear, a bit needs to be cut to allow the hose to come out the other side.

Pete

[kaiv]

Right on! Thanks for sharing! I think a big car like the E9x definitely needs some brake ducts.

The black plates are really close to the rotors though. Do you know if they'd fit with bigger/wider aftermarket rotors? (namely Stoptech 380x35mm rotors)

[Slapshot9]

Nice! I want to do mine. How much did the materials cost? Did you use a template to cut the opening for the front brake duct to mount to undertray? Looks relatively easy. Thanks!

[RickyBobby]

Well done!

[schnell325]

Very nice. Did you get the Apex ducts from Cantrell also?

[THE TECH]

Nicely done.

[sleepless]

Cantrell designed these plates originally for use with the StopTech 380 brakes, so, yes they will fit pretty much any brake setup.

Parts Needed:

- Cantrell backing plates. $450 www.cantrellmotorsport.com
- Apex ducts. $200 http://www.apexraceparts.com/E9X-M3-...yle_p_137.html
- 10 feet of 2.5 SILICONE DUCTING. $100 (I got mine thru Cantrell so don't know of other sources)
- 2 STAINLESS HOSE CLAMPs. $10

Total $760

Takes about 4+ hours depending on your familiarity with the car. Others have posted details on removing the undertray, rotor and backing plate.

Note that even though these plates are $50 more than the carbon fiber plates from Bimmerworld, I chose Cantrell's aluminum plates because they need no trimming so they save time (and money if you have a shop do the install) and I'm also not sure about the durability of CF plates on a street car. YMMV

[Peter Griffin]

These are kind of pricey for aluminum plates no? PF plates were around 1/2 the price.

[LiM3y]

Nice pics - these inspired me to start building my own ducting - so nice job there. I am going to do a version of the Junior system (http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316897) and have bought a pair of OEM backing plates to cut holes in rather than the Cantrell plates and have bought 3" ducting. Your threading of the ducts from undertray to backing plates is particularly useful! Does the gap between the anti-roll bar and control arm widen when the suspension is under load?

Thanks!

[sleepless]

Originally Posted by Peter Griffin

These are kind of pricey for aluminum plates no? PF plates were around 1/2 the price.

Bimmerworld has CF plates that are $400 ($200 each), but need trimming since they are designed specifically for the Performance Friction brakes.

[sleepless]

Originally Posted by LiM3y

Nice pics - these inspired me to start building my own ducting - so nice job there. I am going to do a version of the Junior system (http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=316897) and have bought a pair of OEM backing plates to cut holes in rather than the Cantrell plates and have bought 3" ducting. Your threading of the ducts from undertray to backing plates is particularly useful! Does the gap between the anti-roll bar and control arm widen when the suspension is under load?

Thanks!

Yes, I saw that thread and is a great solution for those that are handier in the shop than I am!

I don't see the gap between the arm and sway bar widen much. It is pretty tight through there with 3" hose, which is probably why Junior routed the hose along the arm. The issue with that routing is tire rub at full lock with wider wheels/tires. I run 10" track wheels so wanted to route the hose so it does not rub.

[sleepless]

Another good reference thread: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=647713

Note the comments on the CF plates; the trimming and durability where the reasons I went with the aluminum plates.

[LiM3y]

Originally Posted by sleepless

Yes, I saw that thread and is a great solution for those that are handier in the shop than I am!

I don't see the gap between the arm and sway bar widen much. It is pretty tight through there with 3" hose, which is probably why Junior routed the hose along the arm. The issue with that routing is tire rub at full lock with wider wheels/tires. I run 10" track wheels so wanted to route the hose so it does not rub.

That's what I like about your routing. Hopefully the 3" will squash down the 1/2" difference for that gap.

I bought the SCAT tubing without the wire reinforcement for a bit more flexibility...and also if there is an almighty f-up, there wont be several feet of metal reinforcing wire shrink-wrapped around my brakes, rotors, suspension, expensive electrical gizmos....

[The BMW plates are $44 each, so if it doesn't work out, I have dropped too many coins]

[RickyBobby]

Originally Posted by sleepless

- Apex ducts. $200 http://www.apexraceparts.com/E9X-M3-...yle_p_137.html

Total $760

Is there anything special about the apex ducts? $200 seems high for a piece of molded plastic. I wonder if these these naca ducts would accomplish the same thing. I've used these on previous cars and they were just fine.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...139/NACA_Ducts

[LiM3y]

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

Is there anything special about the apex ducts? $200 seems high for a piece of molded plastic. I wonder if these these naca ducts would accomplish the same thing. I've used these on previous cars and they were just fine.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...139/NACA_Ducts

I just got the same thing from Pegasus...I want to see how they can be cut to fit the M3 undertray

[dapopa9]

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

Is there anything special about the apex ducts? $200 seems high for a piece of molded plastic. I wonder if these these naca ducts would accomplish the same thing. I've used these on previous cars and they were just fine.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...139/NACA_Ducts

These are way to big but could possibly be trimmed down to fit.

[dapopa9]

Originally Posted by dapopa9

These are way to big but could possibly be trimmed down to fit.

here are some approx measurements I quickly took:

[FrenchBoy]

This is great info. I look forward to checking out your setup at an upcoming track day and good to know Cantrell has experience with this.

I can't make the March 18th date, but I am often seen at CCA, PCA and Turn2 events.

[sleepless]

Originally Posted by RickyBobby

Is there anything special about the apex ducts? $200 seems high for a piece of molded plastic. I wonder if these these naca ducts would accomplish the same thing. I've used these on previous cars and they were just fine.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...139/NACA_Ducts

It was designed by BMW Motorsports and fits perfectly. I didn't want a hack job on my $70K+ toy

[Bubbles]

Very nice work. I'm looking forward to a post-track review. The routing seems a tight fit, I'm curious how the set up handles changing loads.

[Erie Von Otto]

I like it and Im digging the idea. What I cannot understand though, is paying $450 for those backing plates that dont even look like they are treated. Alodine or similar maybe? Just cut pieces of .042/.062" T6 or something. The edges dont even look like theyre cleaned up. I can understand if this is a "Race" setup, but still. Correct me if Im wrong, but it just looks unfinished. I would think for that price. Dont get me wrong, I like it, just thinking out loud...

[adc]

Originally Posted by ottoblotto

I like it and Im digging the idea. What I cannot understand though, is paying $450 for those backing plates that dont even look like they are treated. Alodine or similar maybe? Just cut pieces of .042/.062" T6 or something. The edges dont even look like theyre cleaned up. I can understand if this is a "Race" setup, but still. Correct me if Im wrong, but it just looks unfinished. I would think for that price. Dont get me wrong, I like it, just thinking out loud...

I'm sure anybody with a saw can cut the plate profile, but how do you attach the flange? If you rivet it, it cannot be too close to the rotor which I think may reduce the effectiveness, so you will have to weld it.

I think that is what you are paying for - and the fact that it will never sell in big numbers. Perhaps we can all do a GB for it, to show there is interest?