Review: Rogue Engineering E82/E9X Adjustable Rear Camber Link Set

[E92inSG]

For those drivers looking for the adjustability in the rear of their E8X/E9Xs, we are proud to offer you our Adjustable Rear Camber Link Set. These replace the wishbone and guide rod links in the factory suspension which have rubber bushings and limited adjustability. These arms allow for easier and larger range of rear camber over stock.

Features Include:

6061-T6 CNC and anodized aluminum links
303 Stainless Steel CNC'd ends
Fully adjustable, easy to adjust
Precision rod ends with carbon fiber lined races
Reduces slop and prevents alignment changes from high suspension loads performance driving
Designed and made in the USA

For even more adjustability, add our E82/E9X Toe Arms.

Recommended for those who drive their vehicles at the track. Professional installation recommended. Includes set of four (4) links, 2 short and 2 long for one vehicle. An alignment is required after installation.
These are a direct bolt in for the following vehicles:

All E8X 1-Series, including 1 M Coupe
All E9X 3-Series, including M3

bought and installed these in the hopes of increased rear camber for track.

1st issue immediately was that one of the stock bolts could not be re-used due to it being too long and was going up against the rear brembo caliper. I contacted ROGUE ENGINEERING and they said this was an issue they were aware of with some aftermarket brake calipers, I then suggested that they supply the kit in future with a shorter bolt or at least state this part is needed for customers using aftermarket BBK.

after installation, we put it up on the alignment machine and i was disappointed (more like horrified) to see that the max camber was now less than with the stock arms! This was with the bars set to shortest possible length. previously i was able to achieve 2.0 degree of rear negative camber with the same ride height.







After discussing with my installer we decided to send the camber links for machining to shorten the length and thus allowing for more negative camber adjustment. After back and forth with the machine shop and test fitting many times this is finally possible

Min camber setting


Max camber setting


unfortunately it was late by the time work was finished and alignment shop was closed.

will post up final alignment specs tomorrow after corner weighting as well! will be aiming for -3.0 front and -3.5 rear.


wheel spec posted in pics above: TE37SL 18x10.5 with Hankook TD 295/30/18, no spacers

[MasterP]

Modifying mod parts. Lol. Been there so many times.

[hgmotorsports]

This is a good review, but I would like to add a couple of things if I may…

I was actually one of the first people to run this setup and test it on the track. I had these installed on my 335i about 3 months ago in the hopes of tightening up some deflection I felt from the rear end. I DID NOT buy these to increase the amount of rear camber for the track. In my opinion, anything over -2.2* (which is fully obtainable from stock adjustment) of rear camber is a bit overkill and you won't be able to put your power down effectively. Also, if you attempt to push out the wheels AND add more camber you are technically disturbing the original geometry of the suspension which will not help your cause.

I purchased these links because they came with a monoball bearing instead of a rubber bushing (which wears over time and has some deflection). My rear end is NOTICEABLY more planted and I absolutely LOVE the feedback. I have noticed a better ability to correct when my car squirms; very direct feel.

In terms of the bolts, I actually noticed that as well and contact Ben (owner) of Rogue. The bolt was hitting my 345mm Stoptech Trophy Sport calipers. I am surprised he hasn't addressed the issue yet.

I would dial these in, go to the track, and come back with your feedback. I am pretty sure you will be pleased with the rear end! :thump:

-Mike

[Singletrack]

I just wanted to say that this product is total garbage and I should have listened to the OP who tried to warn us.

I contacted rogue before installation (because of this thread) and they assured my reseller that I would have the complete stock range of camber -1.4 -> -1.9. Just as the op, the max camber you could get was -1.45 or so.

So then they say - oh well we do that because some people want more positive camber in the back. LOL - wut? Ok, so that is totally different than what you told us before - clueless or lying? They also said - oh yah we have shorter arms for people that hit this problem. So then they send me just the top camber arm to adjust which makes no sense to me. I figured I would need shorter arms for both camber/control arms, but they insist this is fine. LOL. Ok, so I install the new arms and pay for another alignment - thanks Rogue.

So I achieve my desired -2 camber in the rear, but adjust only the top arm (since the forward arm is maxed out) results in the hub moving aft towards the fender/bumper. So the wheel/tire now rubs in the rear and is not usable.

Rogue has no idea what they are doing with these parts. I would not recommend doing business with them. These parts are going in the trash and I'm putting my stock camber arms back on (at great expense of my time and money). Buyer beware.

[E92inSG]

just to add to this.

i've used this product for less than a year now ~4-5 track days maybe. most of the rod end bearings have free play in them and causing crazy knocking sounds.

the idea of this product is still great but they have to address issues like arm length and quality of rod end bearings.

i've removed the arms and back to stock for now to see how i can get the rod end bearings upgraded.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by hgmotorsports

I DID NOT buy these to increase the amount of rear camber for the track. In my opinion, anything over -2.2* (which is fully obtainable from stock adjustment) of rear camber is a bit overkill and you won't be able to put your power down effectively.

I purchased these links because they came with a monoball bearing instead of a rubber bushing (which wears over time and has some deflection).

I agree. R camber should be < F camber and stock R max camber is more than adequate. The addition of monoballs decreases deflection and frees up the motion of the arms. As for noise created by monoball clearance, 0.0005" of diametrical clearance will make a lot of noise but there's still less deflection in the joint compared to stock rubber bushings. I'm running all of BW's rear suspension arms, plus their F sealed-monoball LCABs, and they're a huge improvement over stock! Personally, I'd strongly recommend this as an upgrade for anyone that tracks their car.

[Singletrack]

Originally Posted by E92inSG

just to add to this.

i've used this product for less than a year now ~4-5 track days maybe. most of the rod end bearings have free play in them and causing crazy knocking sounds.

the idea of this product is still great but they have to address issues like arm length and quality of rod end bearings.

i've removed the arms and back to stock for now to see how i can get the rod end bearings upgraded.

Appreciate that info. Just confirms that these should be removed rather than continuing to do R and D for Rogue.

What's the easiest way to get the stock arms back in? Seems like I have to take the spring out to get tools in there. These were installed with the subframe dropped.

[Singletrack]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

I agree. R camber should be < F camber and stock R max camber is more than adequate. The addition of monoballs decreases deflection and frees up the motion of the arms. As for noise created by monoball clearance, 0.0005" of diametrical clearance will make a lot of noise but there's still less deflection in the joint compared to stock rubber bushings. I'm running all of BW's rear suspension arms, plus their F sealed-monoball LCABs, and they're a huge improvement over stock! Personally, I'd strongly recommend this as an upgrade for anyone that tracks their car.

Just to be crystal clear, you cannot get to stock max rear camber w these arms. You can barely get to the min spec of -1.45.

M3 specs are -1.10 front max without mods, -1.9 rear. M3 GTS specs a little more rear camber at -2.

This product removes adjustability and alters the position of the wheel relative to the subframe and wheel well.

[E92inSG]

Originally Posted by Singletrack

Appreciate that info. Just confirms that these should be removed rather than continuing to do R and D for Rogue.

What's the easiest way to get the stock arms back in? Seems like I have to take the spring out to get tools in there. These were installed with the subframe dropped.

I had my shop reinstall the stock arms on a hoist with just the wheels off. Subframe didn't have to come loose at all. Just need to disconnect the rear toe arms for a little more wiggle room. Less than an hour job to replace all 4 arms.



Again this product is a good idea but execution could be better.

1) length of arms need to be shorter

2) sealed rod end bearings like Megan racing rear toe arms. Stock control arms are also spherical bearings but sealed to prevent dirt/ dust.

[Singletrack]

Originally Posted by E92inSG

I had my shop reinstall the stock arms on a hoist with just the wheels off. Subframe didn't have to come loose at all. Just need to disconnect the rear toe arms for a little more wiggle room. Less than an hour job to replace all 4 arms.



Again this product is a good idea but execution could be better.

1) length of arms need to be shorter

2) sealed rod end bearings like Megan racing rear toe arms. Stock control arms are also spherical bearings but sealed to prevent dirt/ dust.

Thanks very much man! It's good to be confident going into maintenance. I have a lift here actually, but it needs service right now! : (

I agree that it is a good idea, or I never would have put them on my car. I did not need more adjustment, just the stock range which I could not achieve.

[surlynkid]

All you guys say you can get -2.2 or so with the OEM adjuster.......I cannot get past 1.8ish and still have the toe set where I want it. I have to compromise on both. I want -2.2 with 0.1 degrees toe (0.2 total toe). I cannot get that. I am considering Bimmerworld links to get that and remove the flex of stock rubber end parts. I saw rogue out there and am glad this write up has shown us all the problems. I will deal with James Clay directly to get myself fully set up. I just put all the RSS links on the GT3 and am looking forward to testing them on track next month.

[s85e90]

Originally Posted by surlynkid

All you guys say you can get -2.2 or so with the OEM adjuster.......I cannot get past 1.8ish and still have the toe set where I want it. I have to compromise on both. I want -2.2 with 0.1 degrees toe (0.2 total toe). I cannot get that. I am considering Bimmerworld links to get that and remove the flex of stock rubber end parts. I saw rogue out there and am glad this write up has shown us all the problems. I will deal with James Clay directly to get myself fully set up. I just put all the RSS links on the GT3 and am looking forward to testing them on track next month.

OEM eccentric bolts should allow almost up to -2.5 stock.